Types of Italian Marble Tiles

Natural marble tiles from Italy come in an array of colors and styles and can range from rustic to elegant or minimalist in appearance.             

Tumbled

• More rustic tiles tend to be tumbled, resulting in a matte or antique-like surface.

Polished

• Polished Italian marble tiles have a smooth, high-gloss finish.

Honed

• Italian marble tiles can be honed, which produces a smooth, matte surface and classic appearance.

Rosettes

• Patterned, marble rosettes are another variety of Italian marble tiles. They come in a wide variety of styles, from oval to circular or star-shaped and are crafted into designs using polished, honed or tumbled tiles.

Mosaic

• Mosaic Italian marble tiles come in polished (glossy), honed (smooth matte) or tumbled (matte) varieties.

source: eHow home

How to Tile Kitchen Countertops

There are many reasons to add tile to a kitchen countertop, from beautifying the space to creating a better work surface. While you can add tile over any surface, if you want it to be watertight and stable, you'll need to start the countertop from scratch. A solid tile kitchen countertop will not only look good, but it will help protect the cabinets underneath it from water damage.

Instructions1

1. Remove any appliances from near the kitchen counters. Disconnect the sink and remove it from the current countertop, then disconnect the current countertop from the cabinets and pull it up. Some countertops may attach with screws or nails, and you may need a crowbar to get them up.
2. Use the old countertop to draw an outline on your plywood. Cut the plywood pieces to the same dimensions as the old countertop, including the cutouts for the sink.
3. Cut pieces of cement backerboard using the plywood as a template. Score the backerboard with your utility knife, then bend the board to break it along the score mark. Use a jigsaw to cut the sink opening.
4. Place the plywood over your counters and screw it into place along the front and back edges with the 1 5/8-inch screws.
5. Mix up your thinset mortar and apply it to the plywood. Use your notched trowel to create ridges in the thinset. Place your backerboard over the thinset and screw it into place with the 1 1/4-inch screws. Place a screw about every 8 inches in several rows running down the backerboard.
6. Place the tiles on top of the backerboard and use spacers to simulate the grout lines. Make measurements to determine which tiles you will need to cut, then mark those tiles with a pencil.
7. Place one of the marked tiles into your tile cutter and align the center of the cutter with your pencil mark. Press down on the tile cutter handle to cut the tile. Repeat until you have cut all the tiles that you need to cut.
8. Use your notched trowel to spread a ribbon of thinset mortar around the outside edges of the top of your counter. Apply tile mastic to the sides of the countertop. Press your edge tiles, those that cover both the top and the sides of the countertop, into place into the mortar and mastic. Use tile spacers to keep the tiles a uniform distance apart.
9. Spread mortar over about a 6-square-foot area of the countertop. Go over the mortar with your notched trowel to create ridges. Put the tile into place in this area of the countertop. Use spacers to ensure that the tiles are correctly spaced. Once the tile is straight, apply the mortar to another area of the countertop and repeat the process. Continue until all of the tiles are set.
10. Let the mortar set according to the instructions on your particular brand of mortar. This can take anywhere from a few hours to a full day.
11. Mix the grout according to the directions that come with the grout. Place the grout onto the countertop and use your grout float to work it into the gaps between the tiles. Run the grout float across the tiles in a line perpendicular to the spaces. When the grout has filled in all the spaces, run the float diagonally across the tiles to remove the excess grout.
12. Take a damp sponge, not a dripping wet one, and start wiping down the countertop to remove the haze of the grout. Clean the sponge frequently to avoid reapplying the grout. Continue until the countertop is finished.

source:  Ehow

How to choose tile

The hardest part of Tiling is choosing color, finish, type & pattern.

It is a common agony many of us go through in the pre tiling stages. There are plenty of web sites offering instruction on the mechanics of cutting & setting tile without acknowledging the tortuous journey of getting past the sales counter.

Here are some simple tips will lower the decision stresses and make shopping for tile less daunting.

1) Good planning is good tiling.

2) Take samples from the store and experiment with different tile patterns. Use a representative quantity to truly get the idea of the final look.

3) Draw out and plan of how the cut tiles will place in the corners. Try to avoid less than a half tile in those areas.

4) There are two kinds of cuts:

Folds: Imagine the tile is made of paper and it folds around a corner... better for pattern tile.

Short tile: Cut as an abrupt finish works better on Non Pattern tile.

5) Measure & plan where faucets, spouts, brackets and shelves need to be placed. Choose a tile size that allows you to grow a hole from the edge of a tile than place a hole in the middle.

6) If mid tile holes are unavoidable diamond hole saws are available.

7) Pencil your square and plumb lines in the middle of the area to be tiled. Choose a tile pattern that best fools the eye if things are not quite as square as they should be.

8) Create a cut list mapping out just how many cuts will be generated by your choices. Less is more in many cases.

9) Lay out your tile plan the tricky cuts.

10) Under floor heating is an amazing upgrade to a floor, don’t be overwhelmed by the electrical. Install the tile over the floor element run the wires to a convenient location and terminate you can connect anytime later.

11) Special cases Bevel edge subway looks great but cuts in corners can look ugly. Plan for whole square tiles in that position and then work outward or away from the corner.

Color

12) Keep in mind florescent lighting gives a modified color tone to that of daylight.

13) Darker tile colors show less dirt especially for floors.

14) light tile colors are better in showers hiding soap splashes.

15) Grout color samples seen in the store are vaguely representative to the actual dried finished color. Consider not matching grout and complimenting tile color with a bold grout line accent.

16) When considering glass tile use a light color thin set. On lager glass tile air bubbles are visible as darker spots remember to fully back butter.

17) There is always some variability of color in tile, buy your quota plus 10% to be sure of color consistency.

Size

18) Size does not matter however time spent cleaning might. Bigger tiles are easier to clean.

19) Thickness of tile is not reflective of quality, but be aware of the class of tile and its appropriateness of use. Some tiles are good for walls and not floors.

Look

20) Tile surface finish plays an important safety roll when considering a flooring project. Seek advise from your supplier.

21) If you shower uses a larger tile and the last row is greatly reduced in height consider an accented row of another style and height to soak up the problem.

22) If the edge of a tile is visible such as in a window ledge or counter top. Look for full glazed tile that brings the color over to the sides or insert a bull nose section ( ¼ round).

Source: homerepair.com

Backsplash tile

What is a backsplash? A backsplash is a vertical extension to a counter--typically kitchen or bathroom counter--which protects the wall from unintended splashes of water.


Backsplashes began life as functional conveniences — easy-to-clean surfaces that protectkitchen walls, especially those behind the cooktop, sink and prep area. But it didn't take long for kitchen designers and homeowners to realize that a distinctive backsplash can also help a kitchen look great. That means you can add real flair to your kitchen with relatively little fuss, because installing a backsplash is a project you can tackle without disturbing other elements in the room.

There are no real rules governing backsplashes. Besides selecting a material (or materials), you have to decide how "long" the run should be. Wrapping the backsplash around the entire room gives a sense of visual continuity, which could help a small space seem larger. The opposite approach—panels behind specific areas like the range or sink —highlights and draws attention to these areas.

The other choice is how tall the treatment should stand. A backsplash that runs all the way up to the bottom of the wall cabinets gives the room a finished quality. As for a low backsplash, Karen Thompson, a design consultant for a branch of The Home Depot in Atlanta, says, "I don't recommend the standard 4-in. backsplash because it adds another horizontal line to a room that's full of them. Also, the wall has to be finished off with paint or wallpaper, which isn't very durable."

Because a backsplash bridges the counter and cabinets, choose a material and color that work with those elements. Complementary colors or variations on a dominant color give a traditional look. To liven up the room, add some contrast, like a stainless backsplash with cherry cabinets, or a checkerboard of dark and light tiles. Consider texture, too. Rough finishes add a casual flavor, while slick, shiny surfaces emphasize elegance and a contemporary feeling.

This roundup will show you how several backsplash materials stack up when it comes to installation, cost and maintenance.

Source: this oldhouse

Larger tiles are becoming popular

Larger tiles are becoming more and more popular these days. Here are some pictures of some 20x20 tile we installed in the tack room of a horse barn in Bucks County PA.

 This floor is a high traffic area that will see a lot of abuse. The customer chose a large durable matte finish porcelain tile with natural colors to accentuate the walls but also because it is low maintenance.

The color and finish of a tile can minimize water spots from cleaning and spills as well as hide the dirt. Larger tiles mean less grout, and the grout we installed was a stain resistant epoxy. This is a great combination for high traffic areas.

Mosaic Tiles

Mosaic floor tiles are usually made from porcelain, ceramic, or glass formed into squares of less than two inches (2.5 cm). The squares can be arranged to form a picture or a repeating pattern. Artisans create unique floors using mosaic tiles. The tiles are also available in standard patterns, which can be purchased attached to a backing for easy installation.

Mosaic is an art form which involves fitting small pieces of rock, shell, tile, or glass called tesserae together to create a pattern which may be abstract or representational. Some of the finest examples of mosaic can be found in ancient art from the Greco-Roman world, and in Byzantine churches. This craft can be used to decorate everything from chests of drawers to floors, and it has been a part of the artistic expression of many cultures all over the world.

The earliest known mosaics date to around the eighth century BCE, when the Greeks made mosaics with pebbles. The art form spread to the Romans as well, and it was used extensively in the internal decoration of homes and businesses. The Romans were especially fond of mosaic for flooring, and some truly incredible floor mosaics have been revealed at archaeological sites. With the spread of Christianity came an explosion of mosaic art in churches and other houses of worship; these mosaics depicted saints or religious scenes, and often integrated precious materials such as gold and gems.

Some Native American cultures, especially in Latin America, also developed mosaic, which was used to ornament shields and body armor. Latin American mosaic utilized stones such as turquoise and precious metals, and immense technical skill was involved. The oldest pre-Columbian mosaics appear to date to around 600 BCE, although older mosaics may still be discovered.

The Middle East has also been a site of incredible mosaic work. Islamic art does not depict figures, but rather complex geometric patterns which often involve subtle interplays of color and shading. Middle Eastern mosaics ornament furniture, flooring, and walls. Middle Eastern mosaic was often made specifically with tile, and it was used to convey social status and power, since it would have been expensive to install.

This striking decorative art is also used by modern artists. All of the historical uses of mosaic can be seen in modern design, ranging from ornate mosaic tile floors to furnishings and sculpture covered in mosaic. Artisans often have very fine materials to work with, and they may include things like mirrors and vibrantly colored glass to make their mosaics particularly eye-catching.

Making mosaic on your own can be fun, since there are so many possible materials to work with. At a minimum, you will need a surface to mosaic and materials to cover it in. Tile factories and pottery studios are a great source of broken clay and glass to use, and you can also purchase mosaic tiles which are specifically designed for this purpose. A strong adhesive is needed to fix the tesserae to their backing, and you will also need grout to finish the piece, along with sealer if you want it to endure moisture. Tools like tile snippers are also very handy, and remember to wear face protection when breaking pottery or cutting glass.

Source:  geekwise

Ceramic tile

Ceramic tile is made from clay fired in a kiln. Then a colored glaze is added, and the tile is fired again, making the colors very vivid. Ceramic tile can be slippery, so they are usually treated with an abrasive if they are to be used a floor tiles. Unglazed ceramic tiles, called quarry tiles, are also available. They stain easily, so they should be sealed for use as flooring.

Ceramic tile is a beautiful and economical way to add a custom style to your home. There are a variety of things to consider when choosing tile. Ceramic tile is relatively easy to install, so many people choose this as a do-it-yourself project. If you plan to install the ceramic tile yourself, it is even more important that you shop carefully.

Ceramic tile is available in a wide range of sizes. In general, the larger the tile, the easier it will be to install. The most important part of installing tile is to keep it even and level. There are a variety of spots that you need to watch to ensure that you are laying the tile correctly.

It is important that the mortar below your tile is a uniform height. This will keep your floor from being uneven. If the mortar is thicker in one area than another, your tiles will also be uneven, leading to an uneven floor. The spacing between each tile needs to be even as well. While there are spacers available that you slide between the tiles to help maintain proper spacing, it can still be difficult to keep each row properly spaced.

As you can see, there are a variety of ways that the spacing and maintaining evenness can be a problem while laying ceramic tile. When you use larger tile, you will have less opportunities to make a mistake with your spacing. Larger tiles are also easier to handle in the sticky, thin-set mortar.

Another consideration when you are choosing ceramic tile is the pattern of the tile. Ceramic tile nearly always has some variation in each tile. If the variation is subtle, it is easier to match. If the variation is more pronounced, it is important to be very careful when laying the tile out. Even a group of tiles that look exactly alike will exhibit subtle changes when set out beside each other.

The easiest way to deal with slight variations in the tile color is by selecting tiles out of each of the boxes in a random pattern. The worst thing that you can do is to use all of one box, and then move on to the next box. Instead, open all of the boxes of ceramic tile and mix them up. This will draw attention to the natural variations between the tiles without there being highly visible lines, with each quarter of the room looking different.

source: geekwise