Designing a Tile Layout

Design Tile Patterns on Graph Paper

One of the easiest methods for laying out a tile design is to use graph paper. Begin by measuring the length and width of the area in question. For small areas, simply give each square on the paper a designation, such as 2, 4 or 6” a piece. For very large areas, divide the number of squares in one direction on the graph paper into a number of inches of the layout in the same direction. This number will designate how many inches each square on the graph paper will represent.

Once the squares have a numerical measure assigned, begin by drawing the length and width of the space. Count of the number of squares on the graph paper that equal the size of the tile being used and begin playing with the layout. This is especially helpful for wall borders, chairrail heights and backsplash tile designs. Play with the height of the border, whether it will have tiles above and below it, a chairrail or molding on either end, and whether the tiles above and below are in the same pattern. Lay tiles below a border straight and above the border on an angle.

Designing a tile pattern can be done this way; sketching the tile sizes to scale, in the scaled space. Drawing out the design this way can help get a feel for the whole space.

Mark the Design with Blue Tape or Poster Board

For those homeowners who need more visual help, try marking the area to be tiled itself. For help laying a border or a chairrail height, place blue painter’s tape at various heights on the wall, or various increments in from the walls on the floor.
If trying to determine how the tiles should lay, try drawing them to scale on a piece of poster board, and either placing the whole board in place, or cutting the pieces out and playing around with the layout. Try laying the loose pieces at different angles and positions and stepping away from the space to get a feel for how it will look. Using poster board in a color approximate to the one chosen for the tile, will help increase this effect.

 

Ask for Loose Pieces

If the tile showroom has a large enough sample room, ask to borrow several pieces of the tile being considered, along with chair rails and moldings. Then use the actual tiles to lay out the pattern or the design in the space and see how it looks. If loose pieces are not available, find out what the return policy is, and purchase a box of tile. Many showrooms will allow for the return of full boxes of tile within 30 days. Some may charge a restocking fee for this service, so be sure to ask before going this route, especially if unsure if this is indeed the tile to be used.

This method works well if playing with different sizes of tile to see how a pattern will look, or if trying different layouts of the same tile. Try placing square tiles on the diagonal in the space, or stacking subway tiles on top of one another, rather than with a broken joint. Take the various sized pieces of a pattern and lay them in the space to see how the pattern will look.

Be sure to try to look at a placement for several days and be confident that it’s the correct one before laying the tiles. Leave blue tape or poster board up for several days to a week, or leave the loose tiles in an area that gets lots of changing light to see how they will look through the course of a day. It’s always better to wait a little longer and be sure of a layout, than to risk having it put in only to find out it’s not the layout imagined. Get creative with the tiles and the space, and start designing a new tile project today.

source: interior decorating 101

How to Tile a Small Area

Tiling a small floor area uses pretty much the same process as tiling a big floor, except it's a little easier. Instead of having to stretch a chalk snapline across the room and adjust the lines to be exactly perpendicular with one another, you can just use a level and square to get the layout right. Don't assume that just because it's a small space that you need to use small tiles. In fact, using large tiles in a small space lends a dramatic look to the project.             

Instructions

1. Measure the length of one wall, at the floor to be tiled, and put a mark in the middle of it. Do the same for the opposite wall. Lay your level across the floor between the two marks, and draw a straight line, cutting the area into two equal halves.

     2.  Measure for the middle of the line. Lay your square at the middle, and make a perpendicular

         line off the first line. Extend the second line to the two walls, using your square, so the area

         is  divided into four equal squares that meet in the middle.

     3.  Use your notched trowel to spread thinset mortar over the middle of the intersection of the two

         lines, covering enough to lay four tiles in the four corners where the two lines meet. Press the 

         four tiles into place, putting floor spacers between them.

     4.  Spread more mortar in all directions from the middle, building outward with the tiles, putting

          spacers between all of them. Cut the tiles at the edges of the space with your tile cutter to fit

          against the walls.

    5.  Let the tiles set overnight. Pull out the spacers.

    6. Grout the area by applying grout to the whole surface with a grout float, pressing it into the    

       spaces between the lines and squeezing it off the tile face. Use a damp sponge to wipe away the

       excess group.

Source:  Ehow

What Is Tile Glazing?

Tile glazing is a clear, reflective glass topcoating applied to tile to protect it from scratching, staining, fading and fire damage. The glaze is mostly used in residential buildings and is slip resistant and easy to clean. Tile glaze can give the tile a smooth or textured surface and is available in many designs and colors.                    

Function

• The purpose of tile glazing is to protect the tile. It also causes the tile to repel water and makes the surface more slip resistant.

Types

• Tile glazing is highly reflective and makes the surface very hard, smooth and slip resistant. The glaze is available in many different colors and designs. Some glazes can create different textures. Tiles and glaze can be made from various minerals such as zinc, mercury, copper, gold and silver.

In Your Home

• Tile glazing is mostly used in residential buildings because it is easy to clean. The glaze protects the tiles from wear and tear and will extend the life of the surface. Glazed tile is great for use in kitchens and bathrooms, mudrooms, porches and patios.

Manufacturing

• Tile glazing is made up of a thin layer of liquid, colored glass called frit that is applied at very high temperatures by spraying or pouring it on. Some glazing has mineral additives to enhance the finished look of the tile. After the tile is glazed, it must go into the kiln to bake at 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. Tiles can be single- or double-fired depending on the type of tile being manufactured.

Benefits

• Some of the benefits of glazing are that it protects the tile and extends the life of the surface. It seals out water and is easy to clean. The surface is slip resistant. Tile glazing is also available in many colors, styles, textures and designs. Glazed tile works well in high-traffic areas of your home.

The Difference Between Glazed and Unglazed Tile

• Pick up the tile and turn it to the side so you can see it in profile. The body of the tile, called the bisque, is the largest layer. If you see two layers, the tile is glazed. If only one layer is visible, the tile is most likely unglazed.

Classes of Tile

• Tile comes with different ratings which clarify what types of tile should be used in different areas of your home. Five classes exist that rate the scratch resistance and durability of the tile. Class 1 is for areas that have no foot traffic. Class 2 tile is used for light traffic areas. Light to moderate traffic areas call for using a class 3 ceramic tile. Class 2 or 3 tiles are most ideal for bathroom walls and floors, kitchens and most other residential applications. Class 4 ceramic tile is used for areas with moderate to heavy traffic such as offices, shopping malls, showrooms and restaurants. The final class, class 5 tile, is used for heavy to extra-heavy traffic areas like airports, subways, supermarkets and other commercial and industrial buildings.

source: Ehow

Different types of ceiling tiles

The types and styles of ceiling tiles available today are nearly endless. Ceiling tile is sold in many different materials, sizes and thicknesses and made to fasten directly to ceilings or fit into a grid system called a suspended or drop ceiling. Popular types of ceiling tiles include cork, tin, plastic and acoustical.

Acoustical ceiling tile reduces noise, as it has sound absorbent properties. Good acoustic ceiling tiles are made from spun mineral fibers or fiberglass blended with starch. Wood fiber isn't as desirable for acoustical tile as it doesn't usually wear well in humid conditions. White is the traditional color of acoustical tiles, but gray, blue and beige are also commonly available. Acoustical ceiling tile is a good choice for music rooms or homes with multiple living spaces, but different thicknesses and brands of acoustic tile have different levels of sound protection, so this type of ceiling tile should be purchased carefully.

Plastic ceiling tiles are sold in a large selection of different looks and they offer a great choice for those on a budget. Plastic ceiling tile is made to be fire safe and some of these tiles have metallic finishes to give them the look of embossed tin tiles. These faux tin tiles are made from molded plastic and may have ornate flower patterns and/or crown molding-like borders. Other types of plastic ceiling tile include stone looks and different solid colors. Although they're inexpensive, plastic tiles provide good ceiling insulation.

Genuine tin ceiling tile is old-fashioned and often quite expensive, but is also very beautiful as it adds a shiny look to ceilings. Tin ceiling tiles can be difficult to cut, so proper tools should be used. Ceiling tile made from other metals such as steel, copper and brass is also sometimes referred to as tin tile. Metal ceiling tiles are often used in commercial as well as residential interiors.

Cork ceiling tiles are considered an eco-friendly choice as well as quite simple to install. They are available in waxed or un-waxed varieties. Waxing brings out the texture and color in cork as well as gives the tiles a shine, while unfinished cork tiles can add a naturally elegant look to ceilings. Cork insulation tile has good insulating qualities and these tiles are thick with a dark brown color.

Ceiling tile may be lightweight or heavyweight. Most ceiling tiles can be cleaned with a damp cloth or vacuumed. Many suspended or drop ceilings take coffered tiles. Coffered types of drop ceiling tile stick out above the ceiling line. Filler ceiling tile is thin with a subtle texture as this type is made for cutting and filling in ceilings around the edges of other tiles.


source:  wiseGEEK

Floor tiles

Floor tiles

These are commonly made of ceramic or stone, although recent technological advances have resulted in rubber or glass tiles for floors as well. Ceramic tiles may be painted and glazed. Small mosaic tiles may be laid in various patterns. Floor tiles are typically set into mortar consisting of sand, cement and often a latex additive for extra adhesion. The spaces between the tiles are nowadays filled with sanded or unsanded floor grout, but traditionally mortar was used.

Natural stone tiles can be beautiful but as a natural product they are less uniform in color and pattern, and require more planning for use and installation. Mass produced stone tiles are uniform in width and length. Granite or marble tiles are sawn on both sides and then polished or finished on the facing up side, so that they have a uniform thickness. Other natural stone tiles such as slate are typically "riven" (split) on the facing up side so that the thickness of the tile varies slightly from one spot on the tile to another and from one tile to another. Variations in tile thickness can be handled by adjusting the amount of mortar under each part of the tile, by using wide grout lines that "ramp" between different thicknesses, or by using a cold chisel to knock off high spots.

Some stone tiles such as polished granite, marble, and travertine are very slippery when wet. Stone tiles with a riven (split) surface such as slate or with a sawn and then sandblasted or honed surface will be more slip resistant. Ceramic tiles for use in wet areas can be made more slip resistant either by using very small tiles so that the grout lines acts as grooves or by imprinting a contour pattern onto the face of the tile.

The hardness of natural stone tiles varies such that some of the softer stone (e.g. limestone) tiles are not suitable for very heavy traffic floor areas. On the other hand, ceramic tiles typically have a glazed upper surface and when that becomes scratched or pitted the floor looks worn, whereas the same amount of wear on natural stone tiles will not show, or will be less noticeable.

Natural stone tiles can be stained by spilled liquids; they must be sealed and periodically resealed with a sealant in contrast to ceramic tiles which only need their grout lines sealed. However, because of the complex, non repeating patterns in natural stone, small amounts of dirt on many natural stone floor tiles do not show.

Most vendors of stone tiles emphasize that there will be variation in color and pattern from one batch of tiles to another of the same description and variation within the same batch. Stone floor tiles tend to be heavier than ceramic tiles and somewhat more prone to breakage during shipment.

Rubber floor tiles have a variety of uses, both in residential and commercial settings. They are especially useful in situations where it is desired to have high-traction floors or protection for an easily breakable floor. Some common uses include flooring of garage, workshops, patios, swimming pool decks, sport courts, gyms, and dance floors.

Plastic floor tiles including interlocking floor tiles that can be installed without adhesive or glue are a recent innovation and are suitable for areas subject to heavy traffic, wet areas and floors that are subject to movement, damp or contamination from oil, grease or other substances that may prevent adhesion to the substrate. Common uses include old factory floors, garages, gyms and sports complexes, schools and shops.

source:  wkipedia

Roof tiles

Roof tiles are designed mainly to keep out rain, and are traditionally made from locally available materials such as clay or slate. Modern materials such as concrete and plastic are also used and some clay tiles have a waterproof glaze. A large number of shapes (or "profiles") of roof tiles have evolved. These include:

• Flat tiles - the simplest type, which are laid in regular overlapping rows. An example of this is the clay-made "beaver-tail" tile (German Biberschwanz), common in Southern Germany. Flat roof tiles are usually made of clay but also may be made of stone, wood, plastic, concrete, or solar cells.
• Imbrex and tegula, an ancient Roman pattern of curved and flat tiles that make rain channels on a roof.
• Roman tiles - flat in the middle, with a concave curve at one end at a convex curve at the other, to allow interlocking.
• Pantiles - with an S-shaped profile, allowing adjacent tiles to interlock. These result in a ridged pattern resembling a ploughed field. An example of this is the "double Roman" tile, dating from the late 19th century in England and USA.
• Mission or barrel tiles are semi-cylindrical tiles laid in alternating columns of convex and concave tiles. Originally they were made by forming clay around a curved surface, often a log or the maker's thigh. Today barrel tiles are mass produced from clay, metal, concrete or plastic.
• Interlocking roof tiles are similar to pantile with side and top locking to improve protection from water and wind.
• Antefixes: vertical blocks which terminate the covering tiles of a tiled roof.

Roof tiles are 'hung' from the framework of a roof by fixing them with nails. The tiles are usually hung in parallel rows, with each row overlapping the row below it to exclude rainwater and to cover the nails that hold the row below. There are also roof tiles for special positions, particularly where the planes of the several pitches meet. They include ridge, hip and valley tiles.
Similarly to roof tiling, tiling has been used to provide a protective weather envelope to the sides of timber frame buildings. These are hung on laths nailed to wall timbers, with tiles specially moulded to cover corners and jambs. Often these tiles are shaped at the exposed end to give a decorative effect. Another form of this is the so-called mathematical tile, which was hung on laths, nailed and then grouted. This form of tiling gives an imitation of brickwork and was developed to give the appearance of brick, but avoided the Brick Taxes of the 18th century.<sup>[1]

Fired roof tiles are found as early as the 3rd millennium BC in the Early Helladic House of the tiles in Lerna, Greece.[2][3] Debris found at the site contained thousands of terracotta tiles having fallen from the roof.[4] In the Mycenaean period, roofs tiles are documented for Gla and Midea.[5]
The earliest finds of roof tiles in archaic Greece are documented from a very restricted area around Corinth (Greece), where fired tiles began to replace thatched roofs at two temples of Apollo and Poseidon between 700-650 BC.[6] Spreading rapidly, roof tiles were within fifty years in evidence for a large number of sites around the Eastern Mediterranean, including Mainland Greece, Western Asia Minor, Southern and Central Italy.[7] Early roof tiles showed an S-shape, with the pan and cover tile forming one piece. They were rather bulky affairs, weighing around 30 kg apiece.[8] Being more expensive and labour-intensive to produce than thatch, their introduction has been explained by their greatly enhanced fire resistance which gave desired protection to the costly temples.[9]
The spread of the roof tile technique has to be viewed in connection with the simultaneous rise of monumental architecture in ancient Greece. Only the newly-appearing stone walls, which were replacing the earlier mudbrick and wood walls, were strong enough to support the weight of a tiled roof.[10] As a side-effect, it has been assumed that the new stone and tile construction also ushered in the end of 'Chinese roof' (Knickdach) construction in Greek architecture, as they made the need for an extended roof as rain protection for the mudbrick walls obsolete.[11]
Production of dutch roof tiles started in the 14th century when city rulers required the use of fireproof materials. At the time most houses were made of wood and had thatch roofing, which would often cause fires to quickly spread. To satisfy demand, many small roof tile makers began to produce roof tiles by hand. Many of these small factories were built near rivers where there was a ready source of clay and cheap transport.</sup>

How to Design Wall Tile

Wall tiles are a versatile way to redecorate in a variety of styles. You can design a look with wall tiles that reflects the style of your home or your personal style. There are so many different styles and colors of ceramic, natural stone, artificial stone and custom-made wall tiles that the options to design wall tile are virtually unlimited.             

1) Create a Victorian look by using traditional 1-inch hexagonal white tiles to create a turn of the century kitchen or bath. Another option for a Victorian look is to use so-called "subway tiles." These tiles are shaped similarly to bricks, but the proportions are smaller. Install them in the traditional brick layers' pattern.

2) Create a southwestern look with terra cotta-colored tiles interspersed with decorative tiles or small border tiles featuring geometric designs. Installing regular ceramic wall tiles of any color with an occasional decorative tile painted with a southwestern theme also will give a southwestern feel to the design.

3) Create a classic old-world design with natural stone, such as marble or granite. You can combine them with each other or with ceramic tiles to achieve the look of elegance associated with old-world design styles. Install large tiles of natural stone on the wall or create a patchwork look with smaller tiles. The look of marble and granite can be achieved using manufactured stone, such as that which is used on kitchen counter tops. Marble and granite come in a wide array of colors and sizes to satisfy all decorating styles.

4) Install adhesive-backed ceramic tiles for design only, not as a waterproof wall covering. These adhesive-backed tiles are available in a wide range of colors, styles and types. They are easy to install, simply by peeling off the backing paper and sticking the tile to the wall. You can create an instant tile backing for a stove or sink with them.

5) Work with a ceramic artist to custom-design your own tiles. This is an affordable option if you want a few decorative tiles to use as accents installed with stock ceramic or stone tiles. Depending on the artist, you can design tiles which tell a story or evoke the feeling of a particular location or event. They can range in size from 1 square inch up to 2 square feet and still fit in the artist's regular firing kiln.

source: ehow

Types of Italian Marble Tiles

Natural marble tiles from Italy come in an array of colors and styles and can range from rustic to elegant or minimalist in appearance.             

Tumbled

• More rustic tiles tend to be tumbled, resulting in a matte or antique-like surface.

Polished

• Polished Italian marble tiles have a smooth, high-gloss finish.

Honed

• Italian marble tiles can be honed, which produces a smooth, matte surface and classic appearance.

Rosettes

• Patterned, marble rosettes are another variety of Italian marble tiles. They come in a wide variety of styles, from oval to circular or star-shaped and are crafted into designs using polished, honed or tumbled tiles.

Mosaic

• Mosaic Italian marble tiles come in polished (glossy), honed (smooth matte) or tumbled (matte) varieties.

source: eHow home

How to Tile Kitchen Countertops

There are many reasons to add tile to a kitchen countertop, from beautifying the space to creating a better work surface. While you can add tile over any surface, if you want it to be watertight and stable, you'll need to start the countertop from scratch. A solid tile kitchen countertop will not only look good, but it will help protect the cabinets underneath it from water damage.

Instructions1

1. Remove any appliances from near the kitchen counters. Disconnect the sink and remove it from the current countertop, then disconnect the current countertop from the cabinets and pull it up. Some countertops may attach with screws or nails, and you may need a crowbar to get them up.
2. Use the old countertop to draw an outline on your plywood. Cut the plywood pieces to the same dimensions as the old countertop, including the cutouts for the sink.
3. Cut pieces of cement backerboard using the plywood as a template. Score the backerboard with your utility knife, then bend the board to break it along the score mark. Use a jigsaw to cut the sink opening.
4. Place the plywood over your counters and screw it into place along the front and back edges with the 1 5/8-inch screws.
5. Mix up your thinset mortar and apply it to the plywood. Use your notched trowel to create ridges in the thinset. Place your backerboard over the thinset and screw it into place with the 1 1/4-inch screws. Place a screw about every 8 inches in several rows running down the backerboard.
6. Place the tiles on top of the backerboard and use spacers to simulate the grout lines. Make measurements to determine which tiles you will need to cut, then mark those tiles with a pencil.
7. Place one of the marked tiles into your tile cutter and align the center of the cutter with your pencil mark. Press down on the tile cutter handle to cut the tile. Repeat until you have cut all the tiles that you need to cut.
8. Use your notched trowel to spread a ribbon of thinset mortar around the outside edges of the top of your counter. Apply tile mastic to the sides of the countertop. Press your edge tiles, those that cover both the top and the sides of the countertop, into place into the mortar and mastic. Use tile spacers to keep the tiles a uniform distance apart.
9. Spread mortar over about a 6-square-foot area of the countertop. Go over the mortar with your notched trowel to create ridges. Put the tile into place in this area of the countertop. Use spacers to ensure that the tiles are correctly spaced. Once the tile is straight, apply the mortar to another area of the countertop and repeat the process. Continue until all of the tiles are set.
10. Let the mortar set according to the instructions on your particular brand of mortar. This can take anywhere from a few hours to a full day.
11. Mix the grout according to the directions that come with the grout. Place the grout onto the countertop and use your grout float to work it into the gaps between the tiles. Run the grout float across the tiles in a line perpendicular to the spaces. When the grout has filled in all the spaces, run the float diagonally across the tiles to remove the excess grout.
12. Take a damp sponge, not a dripping wet one, and start wiping down the countertop to remove the haze of the grout. Clean the sponge frequently to avoid reapplying the grout. Continue until the countertop is finished.

source:  Ehow