Designing a Tile Layout

Design Tile Patterns on Graph Paper

One of the easiest methods for laying out a tile design is to use graph paper. Begin by measuring the length and width of the area in question. For small areas, simply give each square on the paper a designation, such as 2, 4 or 6” a piece. For very large areas, divide the number of squares in one direction on the graph paper into a number of inches of the layout in the same direction. This number will designate how many inches each square on the graph paper will represent.

Once the squares have a numerical measure assigned, begin by drawing the length and width of the space. Count of the number of squares on the graph paper that equal the size of the tile being used and begin playing with the layout. This is especially helpful for wall borders, chairrail heights and backsplash tile designs. Play with the height of the border, whether it will have tiles above and below it, a chairrail or molding on either end, and whether the tiles above and below are in the same pattern. Lay tiles below a border straight and above the border on an angle.

Designing a tile pattern can be done this way; sketching the tile sizes to scale, in the scaled space. Drawing out the design this way can help get a feel for the whole space.

Mark the Design with Blue Tape or Poster Board

For those homeowners who need more visual help, try marking the area to be tiled itself. For help laying a border or a chairrail height, place blue painter’s tape at various heights on the wall, or various increments in from the walls on the floor.
If trying to determine how the tiles should lay, try drawing them to scale on a piece of poster board, and either placing the whole board in place, or cutting the pieces out and playing around with the layout. Try laying the loose pieces at different angles and positions and stepping away from the space to get a feel for how it will look. Using poster board in a color approximate to the one chosen for the tile, will help increase this effect.

 

Ask for Loose Pieces

If the tile showroom has a large enough sample room, ask to borrow several pieces of the tile being considered, along with chair rails and moldings. Then use the actual tiles to lay out the pattern or the design in the space and see how it looks. If loose pieces are not available, find out what the return policy is, and purchase a box of tile. Many showrooms will allow for the return of full boxes of tile within 30 days. Some may charge a restocking fee for this service, so be sure to ask before going this route, especially if unsure if this is indeed the tile to be used.

This method works well if playing with different sizes of tile to see how a pattern will look, or if trying different layouts of the same tile. Try placing square tiles on the diagonal in the space, or stacking subway tiles on top of one another, rather than with a broken joint. Take the various sized pieces of a pattern and lay them in the space to see how the pattern will look.

Be sure to try to look at a placement for several days and be confident that it’s the correct one before laying the tiles. Leave blue tape or poster board up for several days to a week, or leave the loose tiles in an area that gets lots of changing light to see how they will look through the course of a day. It’s always better to wait a little longer and be sure of a layout, than to risk having it put in only to find out it’s not the layout imagined. Get creative with the tiles and the space, and start designing a new tile project today.

source: interior decorating 101

How to Tile a Small Area

Tiling a small floor area uses pretty much the same process as tiling a big floor, except it's a little easier. Instead of having to stretch a chalk snapline across the room and adjust the lines to be exactly perpendicular with one another, you can just use a level and square to get the layout right. Don't assume that just because it's a small space that you need to use small tiles. In fact, using large tiles in a small space lends a dramatic look to the project.             

Instructions

1. Measure the length of one wall, at the floor to be tiled, and put a mark in the middle of it. Do the same for the opposite wall. Lay your level across the floor between the two marks, and draw a straight line, cutting the area into two equal halves.

     2.  Measure for the middle of the line. Lay your square at the middle, and make a perpendicular

         line off the first line. Extend the second line to the two walls, using your square, so the area

         is  divided into four equal squares that meet in the middle.

     3.  Use your notched trowel to spread thinset mortar over the middle of the intersection of the two

         lines, covering enough to lay four tiles in the four corners where the two lines meet. Press the 

         four tiles into place, putting floor spacers between them.

     4.  Spread more mortar in all directions from the middle, building outward with the tiles, putting

          spacers between all of them. Cut the tiles at the edges of the space with your tile cutter to fit

          against the walls.

    5.  Let the tiles set overnight. Pull out the spacers.

    6. Grout the area by applying grout to the whole surface with a grout float, pressing it into the    

       spaces between the lines and squeezing it off the tile face. Use a damp sponge to wipe away the

       excess group.

Source:  Ehow

What Is Tile Glazing?

Tile glazing is a clear, reflective glass topcoating applied to tile to protect it from scratching, staining, fading and fire damage. The glaze is mostly used in residential buildings and is slip resistant and easy to clean. Tile glaze can give the tile a smooth or textured surface and is available in many designs and colors.                    

Function

• The purpose of tile glazing is to protect the tile. It also causes the tile to repel water and makes the surface more slip resistant.

Types

• Tile glazing is highly reflective and makes the surface very hard, smooth and slip resistant. The glaze is available in many different colors and designs. Some glazes can create different textures. Tiles and glaze can be made from various minerals such as zinc, mercury, copper, gold and silver.

In Your Home

• Tile glazing is mostly used in residential buildings because it is easy to clean. The glaze protects the tiles from wear and tear and will extend the life of the surface. Glazed tile is great for use in kitchens and bathrooms, mudrooms, porches and patios.

Manufacturing

• Tile glazing is made up of a thin layer of liquid, colored glass called frit that is applied at very high temperatures by spraying or pouring it on. Some glazing has mineral additives to enhance the finished look of the tile. After the tile is glazed, it must go into the kiln to bake at 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. Tiles can be single- or double-fired depending on the type of tile being manufactured.

Benefits

• Some of the benefits of glazing are that it protects the tile and extends the life of the surface. It seals out water and is easy to clean. The surface is slip resistant. Tile glazing is also available in many colors, styles, textures and designs. Glazed tile works well in high-traffic areas of your home.

The Difference Between Glazed and Unglazed Tile

• Pick up the tile and turn it to the side so you can see it in profile. The body of the tile, called the bisque, is the largest layer. If you see two layers, the tile is glazed. If only one layer is visible, the tile is most likely unglazed.

Classes of Tile

• Tile comes with different ratings which clarify what types of tile should be used in different areas of your home. Five classes exist that rate the scratch resistance and durability of the tile. Class 1 is for areas that have no foot traffic. Class 2 tile is used for light traffic areas. Light to moderate traffic areas call for using a class 3 ceramic tile. Class 2 or 3 tiles are most ideal for bathroom walls and floors, kitchens and most other residential applications. Class 4 ceramic tile is used for areas with moderate to heavy traffic such as offices, shopping malls, showrooms and restaurants. The final class, class 5 tile, is used for heavy to extra-heavy traffic areas like airports, subways, supermarkets and other commercial and industrial buildings.

source: Ehow

Different types of ceiling tiles

The types and styles of ceiling tiles available today are nearly endless. Ceiling tile is sold in many different materials, sizes and thicknesses and made to fasten directly to ceilings or fit into a grid system called a suspended or drop ceiling. Popular types of ceiling tiles include cork, tin, plastic and acoustical.

Acoustical ceiling tile reduces noise, as it has sound absorbent properties. Good acoustic ceiling tiles are made from spun mineral fibers or fiberglass blended with starch. Wood fiber isn't as desirable for acoustical tile as it doesn't usually wear well in humid conditions. White is the traditional color of acoustical tiles, but gray, blue and beige are also commonly available. Acoustical ceiling tile is a good choice for music rooms or homes with multiple living spaces, but different thicknesses and brands of acoustic tile have different levels of sound protection, so this type of ceiling tile should be purchased carefully.

Plastic ceiling tiles are sold in a large selection of different looks and they offer a great choice for those on a budget. Plastic ceiling tile is made to be fire safe and some of these tiles have metallic finishes to give them the look of embossed tin tiles. These faux tin tiles are made from molded plastic and may have ornate flower patterns and/or crown molding-like borders. Other types of plastic ceiling tile include stone looks and different solid colors. Although they're inexpensive, plastic tiles provide good ceiling insulation.

Genuine tin ceiling tile is old-fashioned and often quite expensive, but is also very beautiful as it adds a shiny look to ceilings. Tin ceiling tiles can be difficult to cut, so proper tools should be used. Ceiling tile made from other metals such as steel, copper and brass is also sometimes referred to as tin tile. Metal ceiling tiles are often used in commercial as well as residential interiors.

Cork ceiling tiles are considered an eco-friendly choice as well as quite simple to install. They are available in waxed or un-waxed varieties. Waxing brings out the texture and color in cork as well as gives the tiles a shine, while unfinished cork tiles can add a naturally elegant look to ceilings. Cork insulation tile has good insulating qualities and these tiles are thick with a dark brown color.

Ceiling tile may be lightweight or heavyweight. Most ceiling tiles can be cleaned with a damp cloth or vacuumed. Many suspended or drop ceilings take coffered tiles. Coffered types of drop ceiling tile stick out above the ceiling line. Filler ceiling tile is thin with a subtle texture as this type is made for cutting and filling in ceilings around the edges of other tiles.


source:  wiseGEEK

Floor tiles

Floor tiles

These are commonly made of ceramic or stone, although recent technological advances have resulted in rubber or glass tiles for floors as well. Ceramic tiles may be painted and glazed. Small mosaic tiles may be laid in various patterns. Floor tiles are typically set into mortar consisting of sand, cement and often a latex additive for extra adhesion. The spaces between the tiles are nowadays filled with sanded or unsanded floor grout, but traditionally mortar was used.

Natural stone tiles can be beautiful but as a natural product they are less uniform in color and pattern, and require more planning for use and installation. Mass produced stone tiles are uniform in width and length. Granite or marble tiles are sawn on both sides and then polished or finished on the facing up side, so that they have a uniform thickness. Other natural stone tiles such as slate are typically "riven" (split) on the facing up side so that the thickness of the tile varies slightly from one spot on the tile to another and from one tile to another. Variations in tile thickness can be handled by adjusting the amount of mortar under each part of the tile, by using wide grout lines that "ramp" between different thicknesses, or by using a cold chisel to knock off high spots.

Some stone tiles such as polished granite, marble, and travertine are very slippery when wet. Stone tiles with a riven (split) surface such as slate or with a sawn and then sandblasted or honed surface will be more slip resistant. Ceramic tiles for use in wet areas can be made more slip resistant either by using very small tiles so that the grout lines acts as grooves or by imprinting a contour pattern onto the face of the tile.

The hardness of natural stone tiles varies such that some of the softer stone (e.g. limestone) tiles are not suitable for very heavy traffic floor areas. On the other hand, ceramic tiles typically have a glazed upper surface and when that becomes scratched or pitted the floor looks worn, whereas the same amount of wear on natural stone tiles will not show, or will be less noticeable.

Natural stone tiles can be stained by spilled liquids; they must be sealed and periodically resealed with a sealant in contrast to ceramic tiles which only need their grout lines sealed. However, because of the complex, non repeating patterns in natural stone, small amounts of dirt on many natural stone floor tiles do not show.

Most vendors of stone tiles emphasize that there will be variation in color and pattern from one batch of tiles to another of the same description and variation within the same batch. Stone floor tiles tend to be heavier than ceramic tiles and somewhat more prone to breakage during shipment.

Rubber floor tiles have a variety of uses, both in residential and commercial settings. They are especially useful in situations where it is desired to have high-traction floors or protection for an easily breakable floor. Some common uses include flooring of garage, workshops, patios, swimming pool decks, sport courts, gyms, and dance floors.

Plastic floor tiles including interlocking floor tiles that can be installed without adhesive or glue are a recent innovation and are suitable for areas subject to heavy traffic, wet areas and floors that are subject to movement, damp or contamination from oil, grease or other substances that may prevent adhesion to the substrate. Common uses include old factory floors, garages, gyms and sports complexes, schools and shops.

source:  wkipedia

Roof tiles

Roof tiles are designed mainly to keep out rain, and are traditionally made from locally available materials such as clay or slate. Modern materials such as concrete and plastic are also used and some clay tiles have a waterproof glaze. A large number of shapes (or "profiles") of roof tiles have evolved. These include:

• Flat tiles - the simplest type, which are laid in regular overlapping rows. An example of this is the clay-made "beaver-tail" tile (German Biberschwanz), common in Southern Germany. Flat roof tiles are usually made of clay but also may be made of stone, wood, plastic, concrete, or solar cells.
• Imbrex and tegula, an ancient Roman pattern of curved and flat tiles that make rain channels on a roof.
• Roman tiles - flat in the middle, with a concave curve at one end at a convex curve at the other, to allow interlocking.
• Pantiles - with an S-shaped profile, allowing adjacent tiles to interlock. These result in a ridged pattern resembling a ploughed field. An example of this is the "double Roman" tile, dating from the late 19th century in England and USA.
• Mission or barrel tiles are semi-cylindrical tiles laid in alternating columns of convex and concave tiles. Originally they were made by forming clay around a curved surface, often a log or the maker's thigh. Today barrel tiles are mass produced from clay, metal, concrete or plastic.
• Interlocking roof tiles are similar to pantile with side and top locking to improve protection from water and wind.
• Antefixes: vertical blocks which terminate the covering tiles of a tiled roof.

Roof tiles are 'hung' from the framework of a roof by fixing them with nails. The tiles are usually hung in parallel rows, with each row overlapping the row below it to exclude rainwater and to cover the nails that hold the row below. There are also roof tiles for special positions, particularly where the planes of the several pitches meet. They include ridge, hip and valley tiles.
Similarly to roof tiling, tiling has been used to provide a protective weather envelope to the sides of timber frame buildings. These are hung on laths nailed to wall timbers, with tiles specially moulded to cover corners and jambs. Often these tiles are shaped at the exposed end to give a decorative effect. Another form of this is the so-called mathematical tile, which was hung on laths, nailed and then grouted. This form of tiling gives an imitation of brickwork and was developed to give the appearance of brick, but avoided the Brick Taxes of the 18th century.<sup>[1]

Fired roof tiles are found as early as the 3rd millennium BC in the Early Helladic House of the tiles in Lerna, Greece.[2][3] Debris found at the site contained thousands of terracotta tiles having fallen from the roof.[4] In the Mycenaean period, roofs tiles are documented for Gla and Midea.[5]
The earliest finds of roof tiles in archaic Greece are documented from a very restricted area around Corinth (Greece), where fired tiles began to replace thatched roofs at two temples of Apollo and Poseidon between 700-650 BC.[6] Spreading rapidly, roof tiles were within fifty years in evidence for a large number of sites around the Eastern Mediterranean, including Mainland Greece, Western Asia Minor, Southern and Central Italy.[7] Early roof tiles showed an S-shape, with the pan and cover tile forming one piece. They were rather bulky affairs, weighing around 30 kg apiece.[8] Being more expensive and labour-intensive to produce than thatch, their introduction has been explained by their greatly enhanced fire resistance which gave desired protection to the costly temples.[9]
The spread of the roof tile technique has to be viewed in connection with the simultaneous rise of monumental architecture in ancient Greece. Only the newly-appearing stone walls, which were replacing the earlier mudbrick and wood walls, were strong enough to support the weight of a tiled roof.[10] As a side-effect, it has been assumed that the new stone and tile construction also ushered in the end of 'Chinese roof' (Knickdach) construction in Greek architecture, as they made the need for an extended roof as rain protection for the mudbrick walls obsolete.[11]
Production of dutch roof tiles started in the 14th century when city rulers required the use of fireproof materials. At the time most houses were made of wood and had thatch roofing, which would often cause fires to quickly spread. To satisfy demand, many small roof tile makers began to produce roof tiles by hand. Many of these small factories were built near rivers where there was a ready source of clay and cheap transport.</sup>

How to Design Wall Tile

Wall tiles are a versatile way to redecorate in a variety of styles. You can design a look with wall tiles that reflects the style of your home or your personal style. There are so many different styles and colors of ceramic, natural stone, artificial stone and custom-made wall tiles that the options to design wall tile are virtually unlimited.             

1) Create a Victorian look by using traditional 1-inch hexagonal white tiles to create a turn of the century kitchen or bath. Another option for a Victorian look is to use so-called "subway tiles." These tiles are shaped similarly to bricks, but the proportions are smaller. Install them in the traditional brick layers' pattern.

2) Create a southwestern look with terra cotta-colored tiles interspersed with decorative tiles or small border tiles featuring geometric designs. Installing regular ceramic wall tiles of any color with an occasional decorative tile painted with a southwestern theme also will give a southwestern feel to the design.

3) Create a classic old-world design with natural stone, such as marble or granite. You can combine them with each other or with ceramic tiles to achieve the look of elegance associated with old-world design styles. Install large tiles of natural stone on the wall or create a patchwork look with smaller tiles. The look of marble and granite can be achieved using manufactured stone, such as that which is used on kitchen counter tops. Marble and granite come in a wide array of colors and sizes to satisfy all decorating styles.

4) Install adhesive-backed ceramic tiles for design only, not as a waterproof wall covering. These adhesive-backed tiles are available in a wide range of colors, styles and types. They are easy to install, simply by peeling off the backing paper and sticking the tile to the wall. You can create an instant tile backing for a stove or sink with them.

5) Work with a ceramic artist to custom-design your own tiles. This is an affordable option if you want a few decorative tiles to use as accents installed with stock ceramic or stone tiles. Depending on the artist, you can design tiles which tell a story or evoke the feeling of a particular location or event. They can range in size from 1 square inch up to 2 square feet and still fit in the artist's regular firing kiln.

source: ehow

Types of Italian Marble Tiles

Natural marble tiles from Italy come in an array of colors and styles and can range from rustic to elegant or minimalist in appearance.             

Tumbled

• More rustic tiles tend to be tumbled, resulting in a matte or antique-like surface.

Polished

• Polished Italian marble tiles have a smooth, high-gloss finish.

Honed

• Italian marble tiles can be honed, which produces a smooth, matte surface and classic appearance.

Rosettes

• Patterned, marble rosettes are another variety of Italian marble tiles. They come in a wide variety of styles, from oval to circular or star-shaped and are crafted into designs using polished, honed or tumbled tiles.

Mosaic

• Mosaic Italian marble tiles come in polished (glossy), honed (smooth matte) or tumbled (matte) varieties.

source: eHow home

How to Tile Kitchen Countertops

There are many reasons to add tile to a kitchen countertop, from beautifying the space to creating a better work surface. While you can add tile over any surface, if you want it to be watertight and stable, you'll need to start the countertop from scratch. A solid tile kitchen countertop will not only look good, but it will help protect the cabinets underneath it from water damage.

Instructions1

1. Remove any appliances from near the kitchen counters. Disconnect the sink and remove it from the current countertop, then disconnect the current countertop from the cabinets and pull it up. Some countertops may attach with screws or nails, and you may need a crowbar to get them up.
2. Use the old countertop to draw an outline on your plywood. Cut the plywood pieces to the same dimensions as the old countertop, including the cutouts for the sink.
3. Cut pieces of cement backerboard using the plywood as a template. Score the backerboard with your utility knife, then bend the board to break it along the score mark. Use a jigsaw to cut the sink opening.
4. Place the plywood over your counters and screw it into place along the front and back edges with the 1 5/8-inch screws.
5. Mix up your thinset mortar and apply it to the plywood. Use your notched trowel to create ridges in the thinset. Place your backerboard over the thinset and screw it into place with the 1 1/4-inch screws. Place a screw about every 8 inches in several rows running down the backerboard.
6. Place the tiles on top of the backerboard and use spacers to simulate the grout lines. Make measurements to determine which tiles you will need to cut, then mark those tiles with a pencil.
7. Place one of the marked tiles into your tile cutter and align the center of the cutter with your pencil mark. Press down on the tile cutter handle to cut the tile. Repeat until you have cut all the tiles that you need to cut.
8. Use your notched trowel to spread a ribbon of thinset mortar around the outside edges of the top of your counter. Apply tile mastic to the sides of the countertop. Press your edge tiles, those that cover both the top and the sides of the countertop, into place into the mortar and mastic. Use tile spacers to keep the tiles a uniform distance apart.
9. Spread mortar over about a 6-square-foot area of the countertop. Go over the mortar with your notched trowel to create ridges. Put the tile into place in this area of the countertop. Use spacers to ensure that the tiles are correctly spaced. Once the tile is straight, apply the mortar to another area of the countertop and repeat the process. Continue until all of the tiles are set.
10. Let the mortar set according to the instructions on your particular brand of mortar. This can take anywhere from a few hours to a full day.
11. Mix the grout according to the directions that come with the grout. Place the grout onto the countertop and use your grout float to work it into the gaps between the tiles. Run the grout float across the tiles in a line perpendicular to the spaces. When the grout has filled in all the spaces, run the float diagonally across the tiles to remove the excess grout.
12. Take a damp sponge, not a dripping wet one, and start wiping down the countertop to remove the haze of the grout. Clean the sponge frequently to avoid reapplying the grout. Continue until the countertop is finished.

source:  Ehow

How to choose tile

The hardest part of Tiling is choosing color, finish, type & pattern.

It is a common agony many of us go through in the pre tiling stages. There are plenty of web sites offering instruction on the mechanics of cutting & setting tile without acknowledging the tortuous journey of getting past the sales counter.

Here are some simple tips will lower the decision stresses and make shopping for tile less daunting.

1) Good planning is good tiling.

2) Take samples from the store and experiment with different tile patterns. Use a representative quantity to truly get the idea of the final look.

3) Draw out and plan of how the cut tiles will place in the corners. Try to avoid less than a half tile in those areas.

4) There are two kinds of cuts:

Folds: Imagine the tile is made of paper and it folds around a corner... better for pattern tile.

Short tile: Cut as an abrupt finish works better on Non Pattern tile.

5) Measure & plan where faucets, spouts, brackets and shelves need to be placed. Choose a tile size that allows you to grow a hole from the edge of a tile than place a hole in the middle.

6) If mid tile holes are unavoidable diamond hole saws are available.

7) Pencil your square and plumb lines in the middle of the area to be tiled. Choose a tile pattern that best fools the eye if things are not quite as square as they should be.

8) Create a cut list mapping out just how many cuts will be generated by your choices. Less is more in many cases.

9) Lay out your tile plan the tricky cuts.

10) Under floor heating is an amazing upgrade to a floor, don’t be overwhelmed by the electrical. Install the tile over the floor element run the wires to a convenient location and terminate you can connect anytime later.

11) Special cases Bevel edge subway looks great but cuts in corners can look ugly. Plan for whole square tiles in that position and then work outward or away from the corner.

Color

12) Keep in mind florescent lighting gives a modified color tone to that of daylight.

13) Darker tile colors show less dirt especially for floors.

14) light tile colors are better in showers hiding soap splashes.

15) Grout color samples seen in the store are vaguely representative to the actual dried finished color. Consider not matching grout and complimenting tile color with a bold grout line accent.

16) When considering glass tile use a light color thin set. On lager glass tile air bubbles are visible as darker spots remember to fully back butter.

17) There is always some variability of color in tile, buy your quota plus 10% to be sure of color consistency.

Size

18) Size does not matter however time spent cleaning might. Bigger tiles are easier to clean.

19) Thickness of tile is not reflective of quality, but be aware of the class of tile and its appropriateness of use. Some tiles are good for walls and not floors.

Look

20) Tile surface finish plays an important safety roll when considering a flooring project. Seek advise from your supplier.

21) If you shower uses a larger tile and the last row is greatly reduced in height consider an accented row of another style and height to soak up the problem.

22) If the edge of a tile is visible such as in a window ledge or counter top. Look for full glazed tile that brings the color over to the sides or insert a bull nose section ( ¼ round).

Source: homerepair.com

Backsplash tile

What is a backsplash? A backsplash is a vertical extension to a counter--typically kitchen or bathroom counter--which protects the wall from unintended splashes of water.


Backsplashes began life as functional conveniences — easy-to-clean surfaces that protectkitchen walls, especially those behind the cooktop, sink and prep area. But it didn't take long for kitchen designers and homeowners to realize that a distinctive backsplash can also help a kitchen look great. That means you can add real flair to your kitchen with relatively little fuss, because installing a backsplash is a project you can tackle without disturbing other elements in the room.

There are no real rules governing backsplashes. Besides selecting a material (or materials), you have to decide how "long" the run should be. Wrapping the backsplash around the entire room gives a sense of visual continuity, which could help a small space seem larger. The opposite approach—panels behind specific areas like the range or sink —highlights and draws attention to these areas.

The other choice is how tall the treatment should stand. A backsplash that runs all the way up to the bottom of the wall cabinets gives the room a finished quality. As for a low backsplash, Karen Thompson, a design consultant for a branch of The Home Depot in Atlanta, says, "I don't recommend the standard 4-in. backsplash because it adds another horizontal line to a room that's full of them. Also, the wall has to be finished off with paint or wallpaper, which isn't very durable."

Because a backsplash bridges the counter and cabinets, choose a material and color that work with those elements. Complementary colors or variations on a dominant color give a traditional look. To liven up the room, add some contrast, like a stainless backsplash with cherry cabinets, or a checkerboard of dark and light tiles. Consider texture, too. Rough finishes add a casual flavor, while slick, shiny surfaces emphasize elegance and a contemporary feeling.

This roundup will show you how several backsplash materials stack up when it comes to installation, cost and maintenance.

Source: this oldhouse

Larger tiles are becoming popular

Larger tiles are becoming more and more popular these days. Here are some pictures of some 20x20 tile we installed in the tack room of a horse barn in Bucks County PA.

 This floor is a high traffic area that will see a lot of abuse. The customer chose a large durable matte finish porcelain tile with natural colors to accentuate the walls but also because it is low maintenance.

The color and finish of a tile can minimize water spots from cleaning and spills as well as hide the dirt. Larger tiles mean less grout, and the grout we installed was a stain resistant epoxy. This is a great combination for high traffic areas.

Mosaic Tiles

Mosaic floor tiles are usually made from porcelain, ceramic, or glass formed into squares of less than two inches (2.5 cm). The squares can be arranged to form a picture or a repeating pattern. Artisans create unique floors using mosaic tiles. The tiles are also available in standard patterns, which can be purchased attached to a backing for easy installation.

Mosaic is an art form which involves fitting small pieces of rock, shell, tile, or glass called tesserae together to create a pattern which may be abstract or representational. Some of the finest examples of mosaic can be found in ancient art from the Greco-Roman world, and in Byzantine churches. This craft can be used to decorate everything from chests of drawers to floors, and it has been a part of the artistic expression of many cultures all over the world.

The earliest known mosaics date to around the eighth century BCE, when the Greeks made mosaics with pebbles. The art form spread to the Romans as well, and it was used extensively in the internal decoration of homes and businesses. The Romans were especially fond of mosaic for flooring, and some truly incredible floor mosaics have been revealed at archaeological sites. With the spread of Christianity came an explosion of mosaic art in churches and other houses of worship; these mosaics depicted saints or religious scenes, and often integrated precious materials such as gold and gems.

Some Native American cultures, especially in Latin America, also developed mosaic, which was used to ornament shields and body armor. Latin American mosaic utilized stones such as turquoise and precious metals, and immense technical skill was involved. The oldest pre-Columbian mosaics appear to date to around 600 BCE, although older mosaics may still be discovered.

The Middle East has also been a site of incredible mosaic work. Islamic art does not depict figures, but rather complex geometric patterns which often involve subtle interplays of color and shading. Middle Eastern mosaics ornament furniture, flooring, and walls. Middle Eastern mosaic was often made specifically with tile, and it was used to convey social status and power, since it would have been expensive to install.

This striking decorative art is also used by modern artists. All of the historical uses of mosaic can be seen in modern design, ranging from ornate mosaic tile floors to furnishings and sculpture covered in mosaic. Artisans often have very fine materials to work with, and they may include things like mirrors and vibrantly colored glass to make their mosaics particularly eye-catching.

Making mosaic on your own can be fun, since there are so many possible materials to work with. At a minimum, you will need a surface to mosaic and materials to cover it in. Tile factories and pottery studios are a great source of broken clay and glass to use, and you can also purchase mosaic tiles which are specifically designed for this purpose. A strong adhesive is needed to fix the tesserae to their backing, and you will also need grout to finish the piece, along with sealer if you want it to endure moisture. Tools like tile snippers are also very handy, and remember to wear face protection when breaking pottery or cutting glass.

Source:  geekwise

Ceramic tile

Ceramic tile is made from clay fired in a kiln. Then a colored glaze is added, and the tile is fired again, making the colors very vivid. Ceramic tile can be slippery, so they are usually treated with an abrasive if they are to be used a floor tiles. Unglazed ceramic tiles, called quarry tiles, are also available. They stain easily, so they should be sealed for use as flooring.

Ceramic tile is a beautiful and economical way to add a custom style to your home. There are a variety of things to consider when choosing tile. Ceramic tile is relatively easy to install, so many people choose this as a do-it-yourself project. If you plan to install the ceramic tile yourself, it is even more important that you shop carefully.

Ceramic tile is available in a wide range of sizes. In general, the larger the tile, the easier it will be to install. The most important part of installing tile is to keep it even and level. There are a variety of spots that you need to watch to ensure that you are laying the tile correctly.

It is important that the mortar below your tile is a uniform height. This will keep your floor from being uneven. If the mortar is thicker in one area than another, your tiles will also be uneven, leading to an uneven floor. The spacing between each tile needs to be even as well. While there are spacers available that you slide between the tiles to help maintain proper spacing, it can still be difficult to keep each row properly spaced.

As you can see, there are a variety of ways that the spacing and maintaining evenness can be a problem while laying ceramic tile. When you use larger tile, you will have less opportunities to make a mistake with your spacing. Larger tiles are also easier to handle in the sticky, thin-set mortar.

Another consideration when you are choosing ceramic tile is the pattern of the tile. Ceramic tile nearly always has some variation in each tile. If the variation is subtle, it is easier to match. If the variation is more pronounced, it is important to be very careful when laying the tile out. Even a group of tiles that look exactly alike will exhibit subtle changes when set out beside each other.

The easiest way to deal with slight variations in the tile color is by selecting tiles out of each of the boxes in a random pattern. The worst thing that you can do is to use all of one box, and then move on to the next box. Instead, open all of the boxes of ceramic tile and mix them up. This will draw attention to the natural variations between the tiles without there being highly visible lines, with each quarter of the room looking different.

source: geekwise

Porcelain

Porcelain tiles are clay tiles fired at very high temperatures. This creates a dense tile that is quite resistant to moisture. The Porcelain Enamel Institute rates the hardness of porcelain tiles for use in light traffic areas, group I, to extra heavy traffic areas, group V.

Porcelain is a very hard, translucent white ceramic which has been manufactured in China since the 600s, and in Europe since the 1700s. Because porcelain was associated with China and frequently used to make delicate plates, cups, vases, and other works of fine art, it is sometimes known as “fine china.” Some artisans make the distinction between hard paste porcelain, made in the traditional Chinese style, and soft paste porcelain, claiming that only soft paste porcelain is true china, but the terms are used interchangeably by most of the rest of the world.

Clays have been used to form dinnerware and fine art for centuries, and the roots of porcelain began in the Han Dynasty, when Chinese craftspeople first combined white kaolin clay with a type of ground granite and fired it at extremely high temperatures. The result was a resilient, translucent, resonant, beautiful piece of pottery, and the technique was further refined during the Tang dynasty, around 6oo AD, to create strong, thin walls which were truly translucent. European adventurers were captivated with the unique and beautiful material, which looked drastically different from the stoneware then in production, and attempted to replicate it.

Early European results at duplicating porcelain resulted in china, soft paste porcelain made with clays and silicates. In the 1700s, a German pottery company successfully made bone china, which closely resembles true porcelain, by mixing calcified bones, clay, and feldspar. Bone china is extremely durable and relatively easy to make, and has become a popular choice in many English speaking nations, although true porcelain is preferred in much of Europe and Asia. Britain and Germany both manufacture large amounts of porcelain and china for use in Europe and export to other nations.

Porcelain starts with a pale clay such as china white, which has small, tight grains that are further ground so that they are even. Materials like glass, feldspar, and granite are ground with the clay before water is added to the mixture so that it can be worked. The porcelain is formed into the desired shape before being fired in a bisque kiln at moderate temperatures. After being bisqued, glazes are applied and the porcelain is fired at high temperatures, resulting in a fused, strong piece of pottery which is delicate, translucent, and highly useful. In addition to being used for dinnerware, porcelain is also used to make electrical insulators, tile, bathroom fixtures, and false teeth.

source: geekwise

Terrazzo Tile

Terrazzo tiles are formed from marble or other stone chips embedded in concrete. The surface is polished to a high sheen. Terrazzo floor tiles are beautiful and easy to maintain. Clay has been used for floor tiles from ancient times. Today, the clay can be processed in a number of different ways, resulting in several categories of tile.

Terra cotta is clay that has been fired but not colored, the same material used for garden pots. It is usually left unglazed. The color can vary, due to variation in the mineral content of the soil, but usually has an orange cast. Terra cotta floor tiles absorb liquid, so they have to be treated before use indoors.

Terrazzo is a flooring technique that results in an attractive and durable floor that is easy to maintain. Created with the use of pieces of marble or stone chips, terrazzo is an excellent option for a number of different decorating schemes. A cement binder provides the medium for arranging the stone or marble chips, making it possible to create terrazzo floors that are unique in color composition and design.

Traditional terrazzo flooring is created onsite, rather than prepared elsewhere and then installed. Any existing flooring in the space is removed or prepared to receive the layer of concrete that forms the basis for the terrazzo. After smoothing the wet cement into place, the surface is embedded with colorful stones and marble chips. At this juncture, the arrangement of the stones and chips can be very free form, or carefully placed to follow a specific design idea. Part of the beauty is that it is possible to use as many pieces of stone or marble as desired.

Once the chips are in place, trowels and other tools are used to make the surface as smooth as possible. The smoothing does not have to be exact at this point, as the goal is really more to ensure the stones are firmly in place before the concrete sets. After the cement has dried, grinding machinery is brought in to achieve a more precise even surface, and also add an element of polishing to the floor.

The final step in preparing the terrazzo floor involves cleaning and sealing the surface. After the polishing is completed, any residue is removed from the surface, and a thin layer of sealant is applied. The end result is a colorful floor that will hold up well to a lot of traffic, easy to maintain, and will last for many years.

Today, there are specially designed terrazzo tiles that may be attahced to an existing floor in a process that is similar to the installation of linoleum tiles. While the design styles are more limited than the freeform approach, installation generally takes less time and requires less preparation.

 source: wisegeek.com